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Accueil > Équipes > Équipe MEIGE > Diffusion scientifique > Séminaires internes

Lagrangian drifter modelling on an experimental rip current

Leandro Suarez-Atias, 28/06/2012

When approaching the coast the propagation of random wave fields on uneven bathymetries triggers spatially non-uniform wave breaking, inducing energy dissipation gradients in the surf zone that generates mean currents. We aim at investigating and characterizing with a 2D non-linear shallow-water equations numerical model the nearshore circulation forced by a random wave field propagating over non-uniform bathymetry in comparison with 3D morphodynamic laboratory experiments of rip-channels. A lagrangian particle tracking model provide quantitative information about drifter movement.